Western Canada’s Rocky Mountains encompass a spectacular playground for back country skiers, snowboarders and telemark skiers... with unpopulated snow-covered slopes, high alpine passes and vast glaciers ranging thousands of square kilometres. What’s today known as ‘backcountry’ is where skiing, in its early form, originally took place. Before mechanical lifts were built, skiers had no choice but to climb up a mountainside one step at a time before they could make a single downhill turn. Early skiers attached skins made from animal pelts to their ski bases to gain traction for uphill travel. These days, backcountry skiers stick synthetic skins to their ski bases without damaging or affecting the ski’s gliding ability. The ‘skins’ are removed at a slope’s drop-in and the skier can proceed speedily downhill.
Backcountry skiers use two binding styles. Telemark bindings utilize a cable that wraps around the boot, fastening the boot’s toe on a hinge. The heel is unlocked, free to move up and down as the skier walks up or skis down a slope executing a telemark turn (see Telemark Skiing). Alpine touring equipment comprises downhill skis, specialized bindings and plastic boots, similar to regular downhill boots, but with a more comfortable fit, better insulation and a cuff that can flex or be made stiff. The bindings release at the heel to enable walking uphill and then clamp down for downhill turns. Backcountry snowboarders use split boards which act like skis moving uphill but connect in a single plank for the downhill run.
The Rockies and nearby ranges offer terrain to suit everyone. Easily accessed slopes one hour’s climb from your car allow you to remove your skins for a run in knee-deep fresh powder so supreme you’ll likely reapply your skins for another run at the bottom. Several rustic backcountry huts, operated by the Alpine Club of Canada, are located a few hours’ skiing away where you can stoke the fireplace, cook a hearty dinner and curl up on a shared bunk in your sleeping bag, ready for more exploring on skis the next day. Experienced backcountry skiers can embark on trips across vast glaciers and remote alpine passes for days or weeks at a time, camping in the snow along the way.
As well, backcountry lodges and chalets are located in remote locales throughout Canada’s western ranges, from where daily ski outings to virgin powder slopes will have you returning in time for a visit to a wood-burning sauna and hearty dinner. Backcountry ski trips in which you stay at remote lodges can be self-guided or fully guided, complete with a gourmet cook. You’ll just have to live without cell phones, e-mail or TV.
Backcountry skiing, however, should never be undertaken without avalanche awareness and knowledge in crevasse rescue, best gained through instructional courses with certified guides. Many professional mountain guides and snow safety instructors who make their homes in the Bow Valley offer various safety courses for aspiring backcountry skiers, as well as countless options for day-long or multi-day trips.
